Dialogue of Cultures and the Modern Ukrainian Society

Peaceful streets with the old five-storey buildings drowsing among poplar-trees. . . Metro buzz and morning fuss. . . Yellow leaves covering the levee’s paths. . . Fountains in the square by the new Opera House where modern roller cars crush the aged marble stairs. . . Kharkiv is similar to and different from many other cities in the world. It resembles other cities of the world by the homely coziness, spring grass fragrance, morning haste and evening fatigue, colorful buildings and fast food outlets. Kharkiv differs markedly from other cities by its peculiar guise. It is believed that ancient merchants’ spirit is flourishing in the city and that there is nothing in the whole world that the people of Kharkiv would prefer to trade. Trade houses, designed by the best architects of the 19th century really add up to the unique merchants’ spirit. Some people claim that the city is rather provincial (in a positive sense of the word) and that it is becoming more European-like. There is no sense arguing – everyone is in a way right. 

The story of the city started with a wooden fortress, built to protect the South of Kyiv Rus’ from Tatar intruders. The fortress was made of wood, with 10 watchtowers and 12 cannons, which nowadays would hardly stop anyone from the invasion. A ditch was dug around the fortress and the bank was raised around the ditch. Numerous underground paths were created under the fortress, which still drive local archeologists into creative ecstasies. By the way, two cannons of that time are still on the exhibit in the local historical museum.

The status of the city and Kharkiv oblast’ has changed a couple of times in the course of history. From 1919 till 1934 Kharkiv was a capital of Ukraine. The city is proud of its famous people such as outstanding Ukrainian philosopher and poet Hryhoriy Skovoroda, Doctor of Medicine and Surgery I.Bazylevych, talented translator, poet and librarian of the Imperial public library N.Hnedych (famous for translating Homer’s Iliad into Russian), physicist V.Petrov, historian Kachenovsky, doctor E.Mukhin, the first professional Kharkiv architect P.Yaroslavs’ky, who devoted almost 30 years of his life to building up the city. Among the graduates of the Kharkiv University named after V.Karazin were mathematician M.Ostrohrads’ky, biologist I.Mechnikov, historian M.Kostomarov, composer N.Lysenko, playwright M.Staryts’ky, artist H.Semyrads’ky. Among the prominent university faculty members were the founder of physical chemistry M.Beketov, mathematician V.Steklov, linguists O.Potebnya and I.Sreznevs’ky, historian D.Bahaliy.

By the way, as far as Kharkiv spirit of merchants is concerned, it can well be a legacy from the best municipal bank of the pre-revolutionary Russia, namely Kharkiv Public Merchants Bank that existed on the community funds. At the dawn of the 20th century the city grew into real financially-commercial center with not only banks, but also with the outlets of international loan and insurance companies, pawn-shop, and offices of the biggest Russian syndicates Prodamet and Produhol’. Kharkiv boasted of the shine of shop windows, luxury of the restaurants and gorgeousness of the milliner-made French attires. . . 

Even in the rainiest weather Kharkiv remains interesting and attracts with its variability. Let us take, for instance, Zerkal’nuyu Struyu (Mirror Stream). This fountain was built on Sums’ka street two years after the end of the war. The word has it, that the emergence of the stream is closely connected with the romantic story of two aging lovers, one of whom was an influential person in Kharkiv. Two lovers were separated in the vortex of events, but a man, who was a former soldier, constructed the fountain in honor of the immortality of their feelings. Officially, the fountain was constructed in honor of the Soviets’ Victory in the Second World War.
In Kharkiv one can have a peaceful walk to Sarzhyn ravine, drink some fresh spring water, observe the nature and even ride kanatka (a rope-way) there. You can also see the biggest square in Europe – Ploshcha Svobody (Liberty square) and have a look at the first sample of Soviet constructivism in the country – the building of Gasprom (gas company). One can also visit Passionariate slope named after Dolores Ibarruri who was living in Kharkiv for some time. It’s worth stopping by the Museum of Art – one of the oldest in Kharkiv with quite substantial and valuable collections. Its collection comprises 20 thousands of exponents, including the masterpieces of renowned world and Ukrainian masters of art, graphics, sculpture, decorative and applied art. 

Would you fancy an excursion into the past? Then you have to find your way to the oldest Kharkiv street – Rymars’ka. It was built up in the 17th century and was mainly inhabited by the representatives of a popular in Kharkiv profession of leather manufacturing artisans. Only a small two-storey house #4 survived from that time till our days. Other buildings were erected later by the rich merchants, city authorities and the clergy. 

The highest building in Kharkiv (almost 90 meters) is a marvelous Cathedral of Assumption with the bell-tower under the gilded dooms. Nowadays, it is the venue of the organ hall but the plan is to move the instrument to a new building and Cathedral will become the place for divine services again. 

At one point in history, funny monuments started to appear in Kharkiv. For example, silvery-black monument to football in the public park named after Shevchenko, or a kissing couple hovering in the air on Pushkins’ka street, or bronze figure of the priest Fedor with the kettle at the railway station. Ellochka-Lyudaedochka (fiction book character) welcomes the visitors at the entrance to the café Rio. Even a monument to almighty ear of the KGB is rumored to exist here. We have one of the oldest zoos in the country and even the kids’ railway which looks almost like real. From spring till autumn, a cheerful crew of kids is always happy to give you a ride on the lovely colorful trains through Kharkiv parks. 

There is also district Saltovka which is called a “big bedroom”. Two hundred thousands people reside in this district and it is quite easy to lose your way there. There is also an industrial community HTZ which belongs to UNESCO world historical heritage. It still bears the traces of the socialistic ideas for living – for example, many apartments do not have kitchens, since the proletarians were supposed to eat in public catering establishments. 

There are 27 districts and 17 cities in Kharkiv region nowadays, the biggest of which are Kharkiv (population is over one million and a half), Izyum and Lozova. Generally, this region of Ukraine is considered to be one of the most urbanized – 6% of Ukrainian citizens live here and the density of population is 100 people per square kilometer. As far as the number of monuments in the region is concerned, Kharkiv region beats everyone – we have more than two and a half thousands of them! Among them are wonderful Skovorodinovka (complex of memorials to Hryhoriy Skovoroda), Sharovka – fabulous mansion built by the Ol’khovs’ki landowners and later owned by a rich sugar manufacturer Leopol’d Kenih. The latter turned this mansion into a marvelous world in its own that consisted of a castle and a park, the beauty of which can be traced even today, regardless the present misery and undermaintenance. 

Of course, Kharkiv and the region are far from being the tourists’ most visited place. There are no high mountains here; neither can we boast of having a broad sea. But there are cozy places that can take your breath away. These are not necessarily enlightening monuments, but just tiny nooks behind the arches of the old buildings, where time sleeps peacefully and undisturbed… 

By the way. . . 

32 years after Kharkiv liberation, a subway was opened here, which is the second biggest underground in Ukraine.
There are over 70 establishments of higher education in the city, 6 theatres, philharmonic society, concert and cinema halls, a circus, a number of different museums and libraries. One can found over 6.5 million of different books in the archives of the State Scientific Library named after V. Korolenko.
We have 19 stadiums, 850 sport grounds, 363 gyms, more than 40 tennis courts, 19 swimming pools. The history of the Olympics will forever remember the names of the following Kharkiv citizens – twice Olympic champion Rustam Sharipov (artistic gymnastics), Lyudmyla Dzhyhalova (track and field), Yuriy Poyarkov (volleyball), Olympic champions Mariya Horokhovs’ka (artistic gymnastics), Ihor Rybak (weightlifting), Vasyl’ Matushevych, Yuriy Venherovs’ky (volleyball), Alexey Barkalov (water polo), Ihor Tseloval’nik, Volodymyr Movchan (velosport), Yana Klochkova (swimming). 
Currently, Kharkov is getting ready to host Euro-2012.

Iryna Rosinskaya
(specially for democracyconference.org)